출처 : SONOW
Seoul's Historic Printing District Maintains Working-Class Pub Traditions
Euljiro's Nogari Alley exists within Seoul's last remaining concentration of traditional printing businesses, creating a unique urban environment where industrial heritage and drinking culture intersect. The area has served as Seoul's printing hub since the 1960s, when newspapers, books, and commercial materials were produced in the dozens of print shops that still operate along these streets. The pubs emerged to serve the print workers, creating an authentic working-class drinking culture that has remained largely unchanged despite Seoul's rapid modernization.
The printing industry's presence shapes every aspect of the drinking experience here. The sound of printing presses provides a constant industrial soundtrack, while the smell of ink and paper mingles with grilling fish and cigarette smoke. Many pub owners have family connections to the printing industry, creating social networks that bridge blue-collar work and nightlife entertainment. This authentic working-class character distinguishes Euljiro from Seoul's more polished entertainment districts.
Nogari Culture: Simple Food, Strong Community Bonds
Nogari (dried pollack) represents one of Korea's most democratic foods—inexpensive, nutritious, and perfectly suited to casual drinking. The preparation is deliberately simple: whole dried fish grilled over gas flames until the skin crisps and the flesh becomes tender and smoky. Served with nothing more than mayonnaise or spicy sauce for dipping, nogari embodies the no-frills approach that characterizes Euljiro's pub culture.
The communal aspect of nogari consumption is central to its cultural significance. Fish are typically shared among groups, with diners tearing off pieces by hand and passing them around the table. This casual, tactile eating style breaks down social barriers and encourages conversation among strangers. Many Euljiro regulars credit nogari culture with creating some of their strongest friendships and business relationships, as the informal atmosphere facilitates authentic human connections rarely found in Seoul's more formal social settings.
Neon Aesthetics and Industrial Romance
The visual character of Euljiro Nogari Alley reflects decades of organic development rather than planned design. Neon signs advertising beer brands, printing services, and individual pubs create a layered urban landscape that photographers and filmmakers find irresistible. The signs represent different eras of Korean commercial design, from hand-painted wooden boards dating to the 1970s to modern LED displays, creating an unintentional museum of urban signage.
The narrow alleys amplify the neon's impact, as light bounces off wet pavement and reflects in puddles during Seoul's frequent rains. This creates a cinematic atmosphere that has made Euljiro a popular filming location for movies and music videos seeking to capture authentic Seoul character. The industrial romance of the area appeals particularly to young Koreans who grew up in Seoul's sanitized newer districts and find Euljiro's gritty authenticity refreshing.
After-Work Crowd Dynamics and Social Rituals
Euljiro's peak hours reflect Korea's demanding work culture, with crowds beginning to gather around 6 PM as office workers and manual laborers finish their shifts. The metal tables and plastic stools that characterize most establishments fill quickly, often requiring strangers to share space—a practice that encourages the social mixing that defines Euljiro's community atmosphere.
The drinking rituals observed here reflect traditional Korean social customs adapted to working-class contexts. Soju and beer flow freely, with elaborate pouring ceremonies that demonstrate respect and friendship. Conversations tend to be loud and animated, covering everything from workplace frustrations to sports and politics. The atmosphere is deliberately casual, providing a release valve for Seoul's high-pressure urban environment.
Authenticity in an Era of Urban Development
Euljiro Nogari Alley faces constant pressure from Seoul's ongoing urban development, with property values rising as young professionals discover the area's authentic character. However, the printing industry's continued presence and the area's designation as a cultural heritage zone provide some protection against complete gentrification. Many longtime residents and business owners work actively to maintain the area's working-class character while accommodating new visitors.
For international visitors, Euljiro offers insights into Korean urban culture that extend far beyond tourist-oriented experiences. The area demonstrates how traditional social practices adapt to modern urban environments, and how working-class communities maintain their identity amid rapid economic change. Understanding Euljiro requires patience and cultural sensitivity, as the loud, smoky, authentically Korean atmosphere can be overwhelming for visitors expecting more polished entertainment experiences. However, those willing to embrace the area's genuine character often find it provides their most memorable and authentic Seoul cultural encounters.